Dealing with Weight-Related Micro-Aggressions at Work

Sorry for the silence. Like a lot of people I found myself kind of frozen leading up to the election and for a while after it.

This post’s topic isn’t a happy one, but it’s one I think matters–how to handle that one (hopefully just one) colleague who constantly refers to your size at the office. Let me lay out a few assumptions: first, the person doing this tries to frame their comments innocently, but the stream of “Wow, that’s a nice suit–I bet it’s really hard for you to buy clothes, isn’t it?”; “You took the stairs? Really?”; “Hey, here is a great deal for a gym membership that you should check out!”; “Let’s get lunch from Panera–although you probably want fried chicken, Chris?” and so forth is fairly steady. In isolation, comments like this are a thoughtless moment. In a steady stream, they are acts of aggression meant to draw attention–yours and everyone else’s–to your body and appearance. They create a hostile environment for you at your workplace.

I’m not talking about people who know you well and pass along tips because they know you are trying to live a healthy lifestyle and they’re supportive (i.e. actual friends). You can usually tell the difference, but ask yourself–would this person make these remarks to their supervisor? If the answer is no, you’re dealing with microaggressions.

I am assuming that your job does not require you to function within certain physical parameters such that your weight could be an actual issue. However, since you are probably not a jockey, an actor needing to play a certain role, or a Victorian chimney sweep, you have the right to make clear that your body is not a suitable topic of conversation in a the workplace. Period. Not your gender, not your skin color, not your (dis)abled status, and not your weight. Especially if you’re female, you may not have thought about it in these terms, since women’s bodies are often conversational topics.

So let me say that again: Your body is not an appropriate topic of discussion or innuendo in a professional environment. You have the right to set this boundary and demand that it be maintained.

As weight is not a federally protected category in terms of discrimination, your HR department will probably not be much help. I’m also assuming that you and the person involved occupy equivalent positions in terms of the hierarchy–if you’re an entry-level network admin, and the perp is the CIO, I’m not sure what you can really do other than look for another job.

With those caveats, here’s my advice. After the problem co-worker makes another remark that seems to reflect on your weight, say to them, “You seem very concerned about my size. Do you believe that it has kept me from doing my job here?” They say no, and probably start to stammer a bit, and then you say (even if you interrupt the stammer–yes, you can interrupt people!) “When I’m at work, I focus on my job and not my private life. I ask you to do the same.”

Keep in mind, this person been indulging their mean streak at your expense while feeling self-righteous about it–an irresistible combination to a certain type of person. They didn’t expect to be called on it, and they’ll get defensive. Probably they’ll try to redirect the conversation back to your size somehow, which in their deluded minds gives them a moral high ground. “I was just trying to help!” “I’m concerned about your health risks” or even “People like you drive up health care costs”–whatever. DO NOT ENGAGE WITH THEM ON THESE TOPICS. This isn’t the time to tell them about your prescriptions or conditions that cause weight gain, or the fact that actually you’re down twenty pounds from your life-time high, or to in any way justify your size–because you don’t have to. The point here is their unprofessional behavior, not your size. Instead, stay focused on the boundary you are setting: “My appearance is not an appropriate topic for you to bring up at work.” “I ask that you stay focused on my professional performance.” “Let’s keep our discussion to work-related subjects.” Practice these in the mirror–seriously, it’ll help keep you from getting flustered in the moment.

Don’t preface any of this with an apology–don’t say “I’m sorry, but I don’t think this is a professionally-appropriate conversation point.” That implies that you are somehow in the wrong, which they will jump all over. If you have picked up a verbal tick of prefacing statements with “I’m sorry” (again, fairly common if you’re female) you definitely want to practice saying all these things at home beforehand. Write them down and memorize them like you’re learning lines. Then, whatever this would-be bully says, just repeat your statements. Eventually, walk away, even if they are still talking.

They might instead challenge your identification of their microaggressions (which can extend to straight-up gaslighting): “you misunderstood me I wasn’t implying anything like that at all don’t be so sensitive it wasn’t like that I have lots of fat friends.” You should still reiterate your point. “I’m glad to hear this was a misinterpretation. I know in the future all our conversations will be about work and not my appearance or personal life.” Walk away.

Stick to your guns. If you are in the habit of talking about body- or health- related topics at work with your actual friends there, perhaps avoid doing so for a while before and after the conversation takes place. Not that you don’t have the right to choose to discuss these topic with some people, at some times, while still objecting to others. Still, the reality is that you will have more luck making this stick with the office jerk when he can’t point to your long chats with your bestie about your latest round of doctors’ visits.

Being big doesn’t mean you have to accept unprofessional behavior or a hostile work environment. You owe no apologies to anyone for this. Good luck.

Try a new veg!

I realize that my last two food-related posts involved 1. booze and 2. fried food. I make no apologies–healthy living can include those things in moderation. I also enjoy vegetables, actually, but it’s easy for me to get stuck in a rut with them–I eat salads, broccoli, green beans (not my fave, tbh), green pepper, repeat. If you have that problem too, let me introduce you to a vegetable that’s commonly available, even in my small Appalachian grocery stores, but not widely-known.

Behold, the rutabaga.

Ok, it’s kinda ugly

I realize this is not the most appealing food item you’ve ever seen. For one, rutabagas are coated in wax after they are harvested so they don’t dry out and can be stored and shipped. In addition, they are lumpy, brown, and spotty. However, this softball-sized root vegetable is much lovelier when it’s peeled. Well, a little lovelier, anyway.

The spots are normal. Really, not the best-looking veggie.

Rutabaga has a flavor somewhere between a potato, a turnip, and a parsnip. It’s buttery, and a little bit piquant but not terribly bitter or earthy, although it has notes of earthiness. It isn’t everyone’s favorite dish, but if you even think you might like it, do yourself a favor and try one! Generally, the smaller ones will have a smoother flavor and will be less fibrous.

Wikipedia helpfully notes that “in the US rutabagas are not widely eaten.” This certainly matches my experience, as I’ve never had a check-out clerk recognize one when I bought it. On the other hand, I’ve never lived anywhere where they weren’t available at least some of the year in stores, so somebody other than me must like them!

In my family, we usually peel rutabagas, cut them into one- to two- inch chunks, then cook and mash them with butter, salt, and pepper. You could also roast them in olive oil with salt, pepper, and any other seasoning you’d like. I think they’d be good in small cubes in a vegetarian chili as well. You basically cook them as you would potatoes, but they pack a more flavorful punch.

It’s just not a photogenic vegetable, really.

The nutritional value of rutabaga is pretty solid–high in vitamin C, good quantities of other minerals, and low in empty carbohydrates.

I do have to admit that this vegetable is not universally loved in my house–my husband just doesn’t care for them–but if you’ve never had one, give it a try! You might find a new vegetable to have in your rotation.

Sports Bra Test part 2

Not-so-big-summary: The Panache “Full-Busted Underwire Sports Bra” is very good, although not quite up to the level of the SheFit. Champion “Plus-Size Motion Control Sports Bra” also gives decent support, but is nightmarish to get on.

A few more plus-sized sports bras arrived here at chez Big Lady: Panache Full-Busted Underwire Sports Bra, and the Champion “Plus-Size Motion Control Sports Bra.” I ordered both from HerRoom.com.

Both did pretty well keeping things in place, although neither was up to the level of the SheFit.

First, the Panache Sports Bra: Walking downhill fast was completely comfortable. When I broke into a run I could feel some movement under the cups, but I don’t think it would have been visible–I wouldn’t have had to feel self-conscious had I been around other people. The fit was excellent, and I love the bright, colorful pattern I picked out! I would have no problem going to the gym in this bra, or jogging a little. Maybe even it would be OK for a longer run, for those who are into that sort of thing. Normal retail price is about $70, but it is available through other outfitters (like HerRoom) so you can get sales. I think mine was about $50.

The Champion was the same support level as the Panache, but with one huge, awful drawback–I almost couldn’t get it on. It has a hook-and-eye closure system on the very lowest strap in the back, but doesn’t completely open and close. You have to pull it on over your head. Now, that’s a very common style for sports bras, and if you’re small enough I guess it works. I find that any bra tight enough to give any support is a real struggle to get on. This one was nearly impossible to get over my shoulders–I could hear threads ripping–and then tugging it over my bust was unpleasant in the extreme. I’d give this one a hard no.

From all the results, I’d say if you don’t need a super-high impact sports bra, the Panache would work fine and you can almost certainly get it for less than the SheFit. If you need really support, save up for the SheFit.

Roth vs. Traditional IRA

Back to finance, a topic that big folks like us just can’t afford to ignore. Last time, I mentioned a “Roth IRA” and said I’d explain what it was later. As promised, here is the run-down.

The difference between a Roth IRA (Individual Retirement Account) and a traditional IRA is when you pay the taxes. For a Roth IRA, you invest the money from your take-home pay–from money on which you’ve already been taxed. Then, no matter how much money that investment ends up making between now and when you retire, you owe zero tax on the increase.

If you invest $3,000 in your mid-twenties, leave it there for the next forty years, and end up with $50,000 when you retire and start using the money to live on, then you pay no taxes on any of the $47,000 profit. Ever.

So there’s a catch, right? Yep. You can only invest a certain amount in Roth contributions every year. If you are under 50 and have an individual income under $139,000 or a household income of less than $206,000, then as I write this in 2020 that limit is $6,000 per year. It does change sometimes, though, so if you’re reading this after 2020, google it to find out what the current maximum Roth allowance is for your income level and age.

So the take-away here is that “a Roth IRA” is a descriptor of the tax situation, NOT AN ACTUAL FUND ITSELF. You can’t go to TD Ameritrade and search for “Roth IRA” and find something with that name to invest in. You need to put the Roth IRA money into some kind of fund. (You could, if you wanted, take it and invest in individual stocks and play the market hard, but if that’s your inclination, then you already know far more about finance than I do and don’t need to be reading this post anyway.)

A fund is a particular group of stocks, bonds, real-estate, and other possible money-making investments. The individual pieces of the fund are selected and monitored by managers connected with the company offering the fund–say, Vanguard, TIAA, T. Rowe Price, etc.. So instead of (say) 100 shares of a single company, a fund might own 5 shares of this one, 10 of that one, 3 of another, some bonds, real estate, etc. Many will balance between domestic and international stocks, between large companies, and smaller ones, and between different industries (say, medical, technological, or manufacturing).

When you invest, you buy shares of the fund, which is buying pieces of the pieces. The idea here is that you are “diversifying” your investment by having money in a range of different types and sizes of companies and other investments, without having to regularly go in and tweak your portfolio yourself to keep too much of your money from being all in one area. You have a single investment, which does the diversifying for you.

If you are like me and you really don’t want to have to think about this very much, there are funds that will take your projected retirement date, and tailor the balance of the fund with that in mind. The farther you are from retiring, the more risks you can take and the more you are likely to increase your investment by having money in stocks. The stock market is (rather famously) volatile, though, so when you get closer to retirement you don’t want to be as dependent on it and you want your investment money shifted more to bonds. A target date fund (TIAA calls them life-cycle funds) will automatically make those adjustments for you as well as continually making sure you’re diversely invested generally. This is as close as you can get to “set it and forget it” in the investing arena.

Roth IRAs are a really good way to start dipping your toes into finance and investing. They may not be the best place for everyone to start–for instance, if your employer has a 401(k) or a 403(b) plan where they match your contribution to the plan, then max that out first. Don’t turn down free money! If you don’t have matching from your employer–if they only pay a fixed amount, or don’t contribute at all–then consider looking for a good fund to invest in for your Roth IRA. Want to know more? Here’s NerdWallet to help us out.

The usual caveat follows: I am in no way a professional investment advisor and this should not be taken as expert advice. I’m trying to help us all build our vocabulary and general understanding of the topic. Many employers (especially in higher ed) offer free investment advice, but it can be intimidating to sign up for if you really have no grasp on the basics. I’m trying to help with that.

How much fat gets into your fried food?

The Not-So-Big summary: If you are frying breaded food, like French-fry cut potatoes or chicken strips, we estimate that your food picks up 2.5 TBSP of oil per ½ lb of chicken or potatoes. If you are making hushpuppies or falafel (and probably most other kind of croquettes), you gain 1 TSBP of oil per ½ lb of batter or mixture.

Many of us use nutrition applications like My Fitness Pal (MFP) to track our food intake. One great feature for us cooks is the recipe function, where we can enter in the ingredients and the number of servings, and get our nutritional information even if we’re not just eating packaged food where it’s already labeled.

However, sometimes the ingredients list isn’t really suited for nutrition calculation. That was really brought home to me when I made the falafel recipe from America’s Test Kitchen. Falafel is fried, and the ingredients list called for 2 quarts of oil. Obviously that whole quantity doesn’t end up in your food! So if you’re sitting down to track your nutrition in MFP, how much oil should you enter in the recipe?

I teamed up with Craig Steffen from the “Figuring Stuff Out Dot Net” YouTube channel so we could try to answer that question. (Don’t worry, we didn’t have to break any social distancing guidelines to do this—we’re married.) If you want to watch his video of our joint project, it’s here!

Over the course of the day, we did 8 tests: 3 with fry-cut potatoes, 3 with strips of chicken breasts, one with falafel, and one with hushpuppies. We wanted to know how much breading matters, which types of breading gained the most oil, if the substance under the breading mattered, and how things change if you have a ball of particulate ingredients in a matrix (like falafel). We had to adjust things as we went, and of course we were in a home kitchen not a science lab with super-precise measuring capability, but we got some results that I think are worth sharing.

Frying equipment and ingredients on a countertop: pan, thermometer, oil, chicken, potatoes, falafel, cooling rack and pan.
Ready to fry!

Our method was to weigh the oil and pan before frying, weigh it again after frying, and then also weigh how much of the oil dripped off the food while it cooled. That last item doesn’t seem to be included in many online recommendations for calculating this, as they’ll just tell you to weigh or measure the oil in the pot, but we found it was actually a significant quantity. Oil that has dripped onto the pan under the cooling rack is not in your food. So, if the pan lost 25 grams of oil, but there were 5 grams of oil under the cooling rack, we concluded that 20 grams got absorbed.

Chicken frying in a saucepan with a scale and cooling rack nearby.
And we’re off!

Here are our findings:

  • Breading matters, but the type of breading didn’t. Both “lightly breaded” items in egg and breadcrumbs and “battered” items in a thick beer batter picked up similar amounts of oil.
  • Particulate items gained about the same quantity of oil regardless of their make-up. I was surprised, honestly, as I figured hush puppies would take in much more oil because they are basically a ball of breading. One caveat—our hushpuppy test may not have been entirely accurate. We had to make some adjustments to the hushpuppy batter after someone (me) accidently poured beer into it, but we think we added enough flour to get it back to the consistency it should have been. Ok, by “we” I mean my mom did that part. Saving the day—it’s a Mom thing.

In general, for battered steak fries or chicken strips, we came out on average picking up 2.5 TBSP per ½ pound of potatoes or chicken (weighed before we breaded). So, if your recipe calls for 1 lb, or 1.5 lb, or whatever, just multiply accordingly. If it calls for a certain number of chicken breasts, weigh them and then calculate.

Metric units, which are more precise, ranged from 65g of fat per 500 grams of food, to 74 grams, but the range is pretty small and probably stems from measuring error. So if you use metric, figure on about 70g of fat per 500g of base material.

These are averages! Like I said, we’re not in a lab, and this is not going to be the exact amount that you pick up every given time, but our results give some kind of baseline estimate to put into your nutrition tracker.

(If you are batter-frying something with much more surface area, such as onion rings, I’d probably increase the amount of oil you enter because the breading added per weight of your base ingredient would probably boost the fat absorption.)

The falafel and the hushpuppies both came out with a lower fat absorption than the breaded items, which I did not expect. They both absorbed about 31 grams of fat per 500g of batter or mixture. That’s about 1 TBSP per ½ pound.

Now, neither of those are likely to have a recipe that includes the weight of the batter, so I also did some calculating by recipe. My falafel recipe called for 8 oz dried chickpea, and a whole batch would have absorbed 3 TBSP. If your recipe calls for 16 oz, or 6oz, or whatever, just increase or decrease your oil estimate in proportion. I don’t think the herbs in the mixture would affect the outcome. Similarly, my hushpuppy recipe called for ¾ cup cornmeal and ½ a cup of flour, and a whole recipe would absorb 3.5 TBSP of oil (but see above about having to fix it the batter). You can probably look at your meal and flour quantities and adjust accordingly.

Fried chicken strips and falafel sitting on draining rack.
Just a few of our fried items.

A few more details about our tests, in case anyone wants to take this up and try with different variables:

  • We used only Crisco vegetable oil for this.
  • We didn’t try frying the same items at different temperatures. We followed our recipes, which called for frying at 350 degrees for everything but the falafel, which fried at 325. We used both a candy thermometer in the oil and an infra-red thermometer to measure oil temperature.
  • All foods were fried for about 5 minutes except the hushpuppies, which fried for 2-3 (again, following the recipe).

I’m including a table of our results, for those of you who like that sort of thing:

Food itemOil absorbed
Fry-Cut Potatoes, unbreaded[i], 118g5 g
Fry-Cut Potatoes, breaded 229g34g
Fry-Cut Potatoes, battered, 230g33g
Chicken Strips, 193g7g
Chicken strips, breaded, 190g26g
Chicken strips, battered, 184g24g
Falafel, 321g20g
Hushpuppies, 290g18g

[i] We decided this was too small a quantity and increased the amount all successive tests

Geocaching

I have a ton of hobbies. Reading, cross stitch, jewelry making, writing–you could say I have a hobby of finding new hobbies! The thing is, if you look at that list, all my hobbies are completely sedentary. A while ago, I made a point of finding new pastimes that would get me moving, and that is when I found geocaching.

Geocaching involves using a GPS (like the one on your smart phone) to search out “caches”–containers that have been hidden by other people for you to find.

This is going to be easier for those of you living in populated areas–I’ve already found most of the caches in my small town. If you’re in a city, though, you’ll have hundreds if not thousands of caches you can go track down.

How do you get involved? It’s easy–go to geocaching.org and sign up for a free account. You can then pull up a map of all the caches in your area. Download the free geocaching app to your smart phone, and log in with your site ID and password. Pick the nearest geocache to you, and head that way. Note that the free version won’t let you go for a cache that is rated as being too difficult to find–good news for the beginner. Also note the terrain difficulty–if you have mobility issues, you’ll want to keep to lower numbers there.

Grab a pen or pencil to bring with you! Once you’re close, park your car or bike, and pull out your phone. Open the app, tell it to find caches near your current location, and select the one you want to look for. It’ll give you a green line to follow to the cache’s general location.

When you’re within 50 feet or so, the app will buzz. Start looking around. Where do you think the cache manager might have hidden it? The information on the app will tell you how small the cache is–some are super-tiny. Popular hiding places include the rectangular bases of lamp posts (those slide up! who knew?), magnets sticking up under street signs, fake rocks…. Click on the “hint” in the cache’s description for some help, especially on your first few trips out. Keep searching for a while, and don’t be discouraged if you don’t find the first few caches you go looking for!

I know, I know–a hobby that involves wandering around and looking for magnetic tubes or key holders with pieces of paper inside just so you can sign the paper and put it back doesn’t sound that earth-shakingly exciting. What can I say? It’s strangely compelling. The first time you spot a cache, you’ll get it.

There are many, many more tips and pieces of advice on the Geocaching site. One of the “rules” is that you shouldn’t let normal people–often called “Muggles” in honor of the Harry Potter series–see you find the cache. Another principle of geocaching is to pick up trash as you go, or as the community says, “CITO”: Cache In, Trash Out. Grab a plastic bag to bring with you so you can help make the community cleaner as you conduct your search.

Check out the site for more, and enjoy a new hobby that gets you off the sofa and out of the house! Just wear a mask if you’re around others, and don’t forget the hand sanitizer.

Sewing a snap on a button-down shirt

I’m sure clothes designers are lovely people. It’s probably not their fault that their job demands that clothing all be optimized for people shaped like fence slats. However, we’ve all had the experience of getting new clothes and discovering that, while they’re technically the right size, they don’t really fit us. Buttons are in the wrong place so the cuffs are too tight. Button-down fronts gap open at the bust or stomach. Now that we’re shopping online even more due to social distancing, we can’t even try things on before we buy!

If you’re big (or just curvy), it’s incredibly useful to know how to fix some of these problems. I’m going to start with how to sew on a snap closure between two buttons on a shirt front.

You can find tutorials for this online, but they tend to start with a threaded and knotted needle, and don’t tell you how to do this when you have a completed shirt and need to avoid having stitches show on the finished side. I’m reasonably comfortable with needlecrafts (long-time cross-stitcher), but many people aren’t, so I’m going to start with the basics.

What you will need:

  • A sharp hand needle. Make sure it’s long enough you can grasp it comfortably, but no longer than that. A shorter needle will work better.
  • If you are not sure you can thread the needle, get some threaders. It makes the job much easier.
  • Thread that is close to the color of your shirt (it doesn’t need to be a perfect match, but you don’t want a high contrast).
  • A set of snaps.
  • Straight pins.
  • A ruler or measuring tape.
  • Sharp scissors
  • A thimble (optional, but I like to use it).

To thread your needle, push the diamond-shaped wire loop of the needle threader through the needle’s eye. Stick one end of the thread through the wire loop. Pull the loop back through the needle’s eye, and you’ve threaded a needle! Put the needle threader somewhere handy.

Next, you need to knot one end of your thread. The way I do this is to loop the end of the thread around my index finger, roll the thread off my fingertip, grab the resulting mass of twisted-up thread, and pull down toward the end of the thread. It’s easier to show than explain, so here’s a video.

Now you need to figure out where your snaps go. Start with the side of your shirt that has the buttons–this is the bottom (closest to your skin) of the two panels when the shirt is being worn. Unbutton the shirt. Take your measuring tape, and find a spot half-way between the two buttons. Mark that spot by sliding a straight pin in and out of the fabric. Re-button the shirt, and put a pin in the other flap (the one with the button holes) right over where the first one is. This way your snaps will be lined up.

Unbutton the shirt again, and work on the bottom flap–the one with the buttons. Measure from the edge of the fabric and decide how far inside you want the snap. Mark it with another pin.

Bring your needle up from the underside of the fabric where the pin is, and remove the pin (if you were wearing the shirt, you’d be stabbing out from your torso). Tug to make sure your knot will hold the end. Run the needle through one of the four spaces on the knob-side of the snap (make sure the knob is pointing up). Push the needle back down on the outside of the snap hole. Repeat until you have several stitches on all four quadrants of the snap. By the way, I’m using yellow thread just so it shows in the pictures; you’ll want something that matches your fabric.

Go around each hole several more times.

Now you need to “knot off” the remaining thread. Push the needle through a few threads of the fabric, but don’t pull all the trailing thread through–leave yourself a loop. Push the needle through that loop, and now pull the end so the loop “closes” against the fabric but leave a second loop. Repeat once more, pushing the needle through the loop, closing the loop around the trailing thread, and this time, pull it all the way tight.

Cut your thread, and knot the end again (if you don’t have enough thread to sew on your other snap half, re-thread your needle with more).

The second snap piece is a little trickier, since you can’t go all the way to the outside of the shirt or it will show when you wear it. Measure from the edge where you’ve marked with your pin. Put your needle in where you will start. To get just one panel of the fabric, you’ll need to take your needle from side to side along the fabric rather than in and out perpendicular to it.

This is where the thimble might make it a little easier, since you can use it to push the needle through. Keep making little sideways stitches, going up through the holes in the snap, then down for another sideways jab. Make sure the snap is right-side up for receiving the knob end!

Messy-looking, but it works.

Keep going around and catching the top layer of thread, and running the needle through the snap until it feels secure. As you go, periodically check the “right side” of your shirt to make sure you didn’t accidentally stitch through it.

Knot off in the same way, by making loops of thread and running the needle through them.

These snaps won’t hold up to a lot of sideways pull, so they won’t fix a shirt that is just too snug, but they will keep embarrassing gaps from appearing in shirts that are otherwise fine!

Drinks, anyone?

If your response to thinking about finance is the same as mine, my previous post probably left you in need of a drink. Don’t worry; I got you.

What is it about bourbon? It’s like…caramel without the sweetness. Sniff it before you splash a little in a glass with ice, or with a little fizzy water, and you feel like you’ve already got your feet up and your neck muscles finally relaxing even before you take a sip.

If you want something even smoother, I’ve been loving this old-fashioned mix all summer. Two ingredients, and you’ve got a wonderful drink to sip that isn’t too sweet as many “summer” drinks are. You still get all the flavor of the bourbon, but the mixer somehow enhances the caramel notes.

I got this at Kroger, but you can also order it online from the company or from Amazon. Pour 1/2 oz of this mixer, 2 oz. of your favorite bourbon, and add some ice. Bliss in a glass.

Big Investment

Being big isn’t cheap. Plus-sized clothing usually has a higher price than similar items in the “standard” range. Our running shoes wear down faster. We can’t own cheap, flimsy furniture. Some of us have to buy two airplane tickets to fly. And of course, there are the associated health costs of the range of conditions which go along with being on the big side.

In short, any blog that deals honestly with the big experience has to talk about finance.

Oh, my lovely friends, you have no idea how much that terrifies me.

Not just because it’s an awkward subject, but because I am straight-up intimidated by the topic. This is going to be a narrative of my own learning and growth as much as it is (I hope) advice that you find helpful for yourself. I’d also like to make the obvious disclaimer that I’m not a financial advisor, and none of this is professional advice.

I’d heard all my life that I was supposed to be saving for retirement. “It’s important!” “You have to think about the future!” “Start when you’re young!”–all very true statements. The problem was that I had no idea how to go about it. I’m not even talking about how to budget and set aside funds to invest (an entirely different issue). I’m talking about the actual process of making an investment. “Put money in a Roth IRA”–how? How do you do that? What is the mechanism by which one does this magic thing?

If right now you are rolling your eyes and wondering how a grown-up woman did not know this–you’re right. I had no excuse. I had plenty of people around me to ask, and eventually that’s what I did–I reached out to my brother, and he talked me through it.

Now, say I didn’t have that advantage. What if you come from a family that couldn’t make saving a priority? What if you don’t have people in your life that you would be comfortable asking these questions? Then the lack of knowledge becomes a serious barrier to your future well-being.

Let’s take that barrier down. Here are the basics of investing in a Roth IRA (if you don’t know what that is, don’t worry; we’ll cover it later, or you can check this article from NerdWallet out now).

First, choose an online broker. I use TD Ameritrade, but Fidelity and Charles Schwab are also options. Make an account. The account should be free.

Next, you have to get money to the account. In TD Ameritrade, you click on “make a deposit,” which then gives you some options. You can send them a check, either electronically through their mobile app or in the mail, or you can link your bank account to them and directly transfer funds. If you want to get serious about setting this money aside, you can even set it up to auto-deduct a certain amount from your bank account every month, so saving is something you don’t have to think about.

Ok, now the money is in your TD Ameritrade account. Next you need to put it where it will actually be invested for your retirement. One really popular option (and the one I used) is to pick a type of fund called a “target-date” fund, which adjusts your investment based on how close you are to retirement. Again, details later (or here’s NerdWallet with more). You need to know the fund’s “Name” which is nothing like an actual name, but a string of letters. You may have to google this, and it may not be obvious. For instance, if you want a T. Rowe Price target date fund, here is a list of them from their web site:

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See the series of letters above each fund title in the left hand column? That’s the “name.”

In your brokerage account, find the tab that says “trade” or “buy.” When you’re there, it will show you the money you deposited into the account from your bank. That’s the amount you will be investing. Enter the fund name into the field of what you want to buy, and hit OK. [Edit-MODan has a few further tips in the comments below.]

That’s it. That’s the magic process by which you invest money. Like I said, we will probably have more discussion of types of funds later, but now you will have some idea of the process you need to go through once you decide what you want.

Please, if you are knowledgeable on this topic, weigh in! Comment on the posts, or start a discussion in the Forums.